Accounting for Humanity

Before a very quick exploration of the topic of Fashion History here are some brief excuses for the prolonged absence of posting.

I will create a post about my adventures at some point but, October was a busy month most notably my first time attending a workshop and this is the experience most certainly worth sharing as, in my opinion, this was the most insightful and useful event I’ve attended during my PhD thus far. Plus, it was in Paris so there are some additional adventures to discuss.

Secondly my excuse for the shorter post today is due to my being unwell. Struck down with what could be my first cold post COVID and they are most certainly as unenjoyable as I remember. So, while I feel sorry for myself let us talk about a Research area I had not even considered until watching a YouTube video earlier this week.

The Dress/Mantua*-Maker – Where women ruled the earth and learned Bookkeeping

Earlier this week I watched a recent video by Abby Cox, a fashion historian whose insight and antics keep me equal parts entertained and inspired. The subject was regarding the recent appointment of Alexander McQueen’s new creative director, an appointment that has led to every creative director of the brands under the parent company being white men.

This led us into a quick dive into history of women’s fashion exploring and analysing how, against all common misconceptions, women’s fashion was at one time, a realm dominated by women. From a gender research perspective in itself the content was fascinating, I was aware of the association of tailors = men, women = dressmakers but, I was unaware of how influential and dominant women were in the design and creation of women’s fashion.

However, there was one small section of the video that instantly peaked my research attention. Women, like many other ‘Guilds’ (women were not permitted to join the Guilds however, I am not 100% certain/cannot recall if a dress/mantua-makers Guild developed at some point) young women underwent apprenticeships, part of which entailed the teaching of bookkeeping skills.

Bookkeeping? While this seems obvious/makes sense, it is none the less highly intriguing from an accounting history research perspective. Before the formalisation of accounting, bookkeeping was largely what accounting was composed of from the business perspective (more complex practices would come in time with large companies) and, after the formalisation of the profession, bookkeeping would become the realm of women (Wootton & Kemmerer, 2007).

The inclusion of bookkeeping training for an aspiring dressmaker (or Milliner, as Cox (2023) notes this would become another female dominated craft) would assist in ensuring that a young woman’s skills in craft were matched with strong business management skills. Again from the gender history viewpoint this interests me as it strongly contrasts the stereotyped view of women and their abilities however, there is also an interesting connection being created between accounting and fashion (more so because these women would become so successful that, in time, men would usurp the industry).

Of further interest, this is not the only video I have seen establishing and exploring the connection between fashion and accounting from the historical perspective. Many months previous, another fashion/shoe historian, Nicole Rudolph explored the truth behind a common belief of there being a correlation between the economy and the heel height of women’s shoes. While Rudolph (2021) ‘debunks’ the myth the intriguing connection between women’s fashion and accounting remains.

One of my personal interests is fashion history and historical fashion and thus, to see potential to research it from an accounting perspective is fascinating. It is a subject that I have given considerably less thought to than my previous ‘Research To-Do’ entry however, now that the spark has been ignited, I suspect I shall start viewing fashion history content with my ‘researcher hat’ on, a hat that would have undoubtedly be crafted by an accounting savvy female milliner…

References (and links to the videos discussed)

Cox, A., 2023, ‘Alexander McQueen & The Patriarchy Problem in Modern Fashion’, The video can be viewed here

Rudolph, N., 2021, ‘Does the Economy ACTUALLY Affect High Heel Height? Shoe Historian Reacts’, The video can be viewed here

Wootton, C.W. and Kemmerer, B.E. (2007) ‘The Emergence of Mechanical Accounting in the U.S., 1880-1930’, The Accounting Historians Journal, 34(1), pp. 91-124.

* A Mantua was a style of dress worn in the 17th/18th Century CE. Described (on WIkipedia, but it is accurate) as “A mantua (from the French manteuil or ‘mantle’) is an article of women’s clothing worn in the late 17th century and 18th century. Initially a loose gown, the later mantua was an overgown or robe typically worn over stays, stomacher and either a co-ordinating or contrasting petticoat.” https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mantua_(clothing)